The Future of Energy in Japan

The Secret to Energy Demand in Japan: a Hot Bath?

Even in the dead of winter, natural hot springs bubble up through the snowy peaks of northern Japan. These are the same types of hot springs that offer refuge for the always adorable and photogenic Japanese Macaque “snow monkey”. There are many natural hot springs in Japan, and Noboribetsu is one of them. Noboribetsu is located in Shikotsu-Toya National Park, which is on the mountainous northern island of Hokaido. It takes about 6 hours by train from Tokyo. The region that has a large collection of volcanoes and hot bubbling water is called hell valley. The surrounding town is filled with hotels that advertise spas and onsen experiences. Onsen is the Japanese word meaning hot spring.

Photo by: N.Cohen

Before arriving in the town of Noboribetsu, I envisioned collections of natural springs strewn about the mountains with monkeys and other animals relaxing. It was much to my surprise that the only way you could enjoy the natural spring water was to pay for a day pass at one of the many luxurious hotels in the area. The hotels divert streams carrying the runoff from these natural hot springs, and pump the water directly into their own facilities. The area is part of a national park; yet, a good portion of the natural water is diverted directly into the hotels for private use.

As I hiked along one of the main trails through the park, there were signs featuring trivia about hot springs, and geological activity in the area. Most of the natural spring water within the park is too hot for bathing, but there was one location at the end of the trail with water cool enough to put my feet in.

With Japan’s large reserve of naturally heated water, there is the potential to harness the geothermal power of hot springs for the energy demands of the country. Geothermal is one way Japan could begin to diversify their energy production, and reduce the number of nuclear power plants required to sustain the nation. Events like the 2011 Fukushima nuclear disaster have put a spotlight on exploring safer renewable technologies like geothermal.

Geothermal is a word that has created division in the past years. The best locations in Japan to install geothermal technologies overlap with large clusters of onsen. There is concern among onsen advocacy groups that geothermal power plants would affect the quality of the water supplying onsen. Due to the cultural importance of Japanese onsen, this will likely be a challenge to implement. Check out this Vice documentary on the topic.

There is a clear divide between the owners of natural hot spring resorts and energy consultants looking for different ways to power Japan. Geothermal power plants are not new to Japan, but according to an article by the International Renewable Energy Agency (IREA), geothermal plants supplied just 0.3% of the nation’s energy demand in 2018. This article by the IREA discusses the ways geothermal could be introduced by means of “small-scale generation.” The benefit of small scale generation is the ability for a symbiotic relationship between onsen and energy producers.

The Yumura Onsen in central Japan is an example of a locally appropriate energy solution that respects a cultures way of life. This article by Renewable Energy World shows how a small-scale power plant using binary geothermal technology was successfully accepted by the community it serves. The community was concerned when the project was first introduced. Once the community understood that the technology would not negatively impact their way of life, they embraced the change.

The binary geothermal technology operates with lower water temperatures compared to traditional steam-based geothermal technologies. It uses the hot spring water to heat a secondary liquid that spins a turbine. The natural spring water never comes in direct contact with the secondary liquid, and as a result, the power plant in Yumura did not require the installation of new wells. There is a way for geothermal and onsens to existing together, but it will take a lot of public outreach to convey this message.

This demon is located at the Noboribetsu train station. The demon protects the area from evil spirits. (Photo by: N.Cohen)

Visitors to Noboribetsu are first greeted by a large demon right outside the train station. The park is filled with multiple statues with various demons who are given the task of chasing away evil spirits and bringing happiness. Some of these statues are in excess of 18 metres tall, and carry large spiky bats. It was a daunting sight initially, but after I realized they were there for the benefit of the people in the town, I started to feel comforted by them. It is not too often that I visit a place with “Happiness Ambassadors” that stand guard to ensure visitors have a good time. The “demons” represent the goodwill and wishes of the community’s ethos.

On my trip, I learned a lot about the history of the area and the importance of the hot springs to the Japanese way of life. It became clear to me that the true negotiations to implement geothermal energy systems will not happen in a boardroom or government building filled with suits. As long as these energy projects receive acceptance from the local communities they plan to serve, the demons will welcome them too.

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